How it works
This calculator shows why a small fee is not a small problem, and the key is that it reports two different numbers that sound like the same thing. The engine loops year by year over the horizon you enter. Each year it charges the fee on the current balance, adds your annual contribution, and then grows the balance by the gross return; a second balance is run in parallel with the fee never charged. At the end there are two figures. Total fees paid is the sum of every fee the engine deducted — for the defaults that is $103,914. Fees reduced returns by is the gap between the no-fee balance and the after-fee balance, which is $255,320. The difference between them, about $151,000, is the market return you never earned on the money the fee took out — and that is the part most people miss when they look at a 0.5% expense ratio and shrug. Worked example on the defaults: a $100,000 start, $10,000 added each year, an 8% gross return, a 0.5% expense ratio, no advisory fee, over 30 years. No-fee balance = $2,229,724. After-fee balance = $1,974,404. Total fees = $103,914. Fees reduced returns by = $255,320. So the 0.5% — just an index-fund expense ratio, with no human adviser on top — costs a quarter of a million dollars over the period, and only $104,000 of it appears on a statement as a fee. Scale the fee and the cost grows faster than linearly. At 1% total the impact is $479,780; hold $100,000 with no new contributions at 2% for 40 years and the impact is $1,204,189, with the no-fee balance reaching $2.17 million and the after-fee balance only $968,000. The SEC makes the same point in plain terms: on $100,000 assumed to grow 4% a year over 20 years, a 0.25% fee leaves roughly $208,000 while a 1% fee leaves roughly $179,000 (see the SEC investor bulletin at sec.gov). Where the money actually goes depends on the wrappers. Expense ratios sit inside funds: broadly diversified index funds commonly run 0.03% to 0.10%, while many actively managed funds run 0.5% to 1.0% and a fair number of 401(k) menu options land between 0.5% and 1.5%. An advisory fee is charged on top of that, typically 0.25% to 1.0% of assets under management for a human or robo adviser. A 1% all-in drag is therefore easy to end up with, and the table above is what 1% costs. Two honest limits. The tool charges the fee then grows the smaller balance, which is the standard model and is directionally right, but real funds quote returns net of their own expense ratio, so double-counting can happen if you feed it a gross return that was already net of fees. And it assumes you stay invested and keep contributing; the fee hurts most precisely when the balance is largest, late in the horizon, which is exactly where the compounding has the most to work with. The practical move is to minimise the drag where it is free to do so: hold the same portfolio in a low-cost index fund inside a tax-advantaged account, since the 2026 contribution limits of $24,500 for a 401(k) and $7,500 for an IRA leave plenty of room to do so.
Formula
total fee rate = expense ratio + advisory fee
each year:
fee = after-fee balance × total fee rate
total fees += fee
no-fee balance = (no-fee balance + contribution) × (1 + gross return)
after-fee balance = (after-fee balance + contribution − fee) × (1 + gross return)
fee impact = no-fee balance − after-fee balance
Worked example — $100k start, $10k/yr, 8% gross, 0.5% fee, 30 years
no-fee balance = $2,229,724
after-fee balance = $1,974,404
total fees paid = $103,914
fees reduced returns by = $255,320 (the ~$151k gap is forgone compounding)
Sensitivity
1.00% fee, 30y → fees reduced returns by $479,780
2.00% fee, $100k, no contrib, 40y → fees reduced returns by $1,204,189
Tips
- Compare the two fee outputs, not just the headline. The "total fees paid" figure is what shows on a statement; the "fees reduced returns by" figure is the true cost once you include the growth you never earned on the money the fee removed. They are not the same number.
- Look at the expense ratio before the advisory fee. A 0.04% index fund and a 0.90% active fund differ by less than 1% a year on paper but by hundreds of thousands over a career; the advisory fee is the layer most easily avoided by using a low-cost fund and doing the allocation yourself.
- Use the tax-advantaged room first. The 2026 limits of $24,500 for a 401(k) and $7,500 for an IRA are more than enough to hold a low-cost portfolio, and fees paid inside those accounts come out of pre-tax dollars, so the same drag hurts less there than in a taxable account.
- Re-run it whenever you are quoted an advisory or "wealth management" fee. A 1% all-in drag is common and the tool will show you, in your own numbers, what the sales pitch is actually costing across the horizon you plan to stay invested.
Frequently asked questions
- Why is the "fees reduced returns by" number so much bigger than the fees I pay?
- Because the fee is charged on the balance every year, and then the smaller balance is the one that compounds for the rest of the horizon. The money the fee removes would have earned the market return for all the remaining years, and that forgone return is not shown on any statement — it is simply missing from the final balance. On the defaults the fees billed total $103,914 but the balance ends up $255,320 lower than the no-fee case, so roughly $151,000 of the cost is growth that never happened. That is the mechanism the SEC describes when it warns that small ongoing fees have a large impact over time.
- What is a "normal" expense ratio and advisory fee?
- For broadly diversified index funds the expense ratio is commonly 0.03% to 0.10%, and that is the version of this tool most people should be using. Many actively managed funds run 0.5% to 1.0%, and a number of 401(k) menu options sit between 0.5% and 1.5%. An advisory fee is separate and typically 0.25% to 1.0% of assets under management. It is easy to end up at a 1% all-in drag, and the tool shows what 1% costs: about $480,000 over 30 years on the default contributions. Anything you can move from active to index, and from advised to self-directed, comes straight back into your final balance.
- Does this include taxes?
- No. The tool models fees and market return only; it does not charge capital-gains tax on the way, because it is a buy-and-hold illustration. In a taxable account the after-fee return is further reduced by taxes on distributions and on gains when you sell, which makes the low-cost choice even more valuable there. Inside a 401(k) or IRA, gains are not taxed annually, so the drag is only the fee itself — another reason to hold the portfolio in those accounts up to the 2026 limits of $24,500 and $7,500 before using a taxable one.
- Is a financial adviser worth more than the fee they charge?
- Sometimes, and the tool does not answer that — it only prices the drag. An adviser can be worth more than a 1% fee if they keep you invested through a crash, fix an asset-location or tax mistake, or stop you from owning something you should not. But the fee is certain and the value is not, and a low-cost index portfolio inside a tax-advantaged account needs little ongoing advice. A reasonable test is to estimate the dollar value the advice must add each year just to break even against the fee, then decide whether the service you are actually buying is likely to clear it.
- Why does the 2% no-contribution case cost over a million dollars?
- Because with no new money going in, the entire balance is exposed to the fee for the whole 40 years, and the fee compounds against the largest possible base. The no-fee balance reaches about $2.17 million and the after-fee balance only about $968,000, a gap of $1.2 million. The lesson is that fees hurt most late in the horizon, when the balance is biggest and compounding has the most to act on — which is exactly when a 2% drag that looked trivial at the start has done the most damage.
- Should I pick the fund with the lowest fee no matter what?
- Low cost is the single best predictor of net return, so it should be your default, but not your only filter. A 0.04% index fund that tracks the right market is better than a 0.01% fund that tracks the wrong one or that you cannot actually buy. Beneath about 0.10% the differences stop mattering much; the real money is lost moving from 0.10% to 1.0%, or paying a 1% advisory fee on top of an already-cheap fund. Use the tool to see the dollar cost of each layer, then keep only the layers that add something you would not do yourself.